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Getting the hang of surfing can be tough for most of us, but what is it like if you are differently-abled?<\/h2>
We recently had a socially distanced sit down with local Newquay Surfer Steff Easom, to talk about surfing when differently-abled.<\/p>
You can follow Steff's adventures on Instagram @steffeasom<\/a><\/u><\/p> Hi Tom! I\u2019m Steff.<\/p> \u00a0I\u2019ve been a full-time Cornwall resident for just over a year, but long-time weekender. I surf, windsurf, do aerial acrobatics, fitness pole dancing and hula hoop dance.\u00a0<\/p> I also have Osteogenesis Imperfecta Type 1, which makes all the activities I\u2019ve listed pretty challenging.<\/p> It\u2019s a group of bone diseases which typically cause fragile bones and a host of other symptoms. There are a lot of different types ranging hugely in severity.\u00a0<\/p> I have the mildest form, Type I - I had a lot of fractures in childhood but thankfully not so many now. I also had only 50% hearing because of it. This has since been corrected by surgery. I\u2019ve also got hyper-mobile joints which dislocate easily, scoliosis (spine curvature) and skin that bruises when you pretty much breathe on it (you should see my knees in shortie season!). It can also cause heart problems but thankfully I seem to have side-stepped that.<\/p> Definitely not! My mother, understandably, wanted to wrap me and my brother in cotton wool, so we weren\u2019t encouraged to do sports other than swimming. You could see her point - when we were little, she\u2019d only turn her head for a moment and one of us would trip and then be in plaster for another 6 weeks.<\/p> I got into surfing when I met my partner five years ago and started spending every weekend in Cornwall. He\u2019s an ex-professional windsurfer and a brilliant SUP wave-rider. Of course, I wanted to have a go at everything. It turns out, SUP in waves wasn\u2019t for me (thankfully I escaped with only a broken finger!) - but once I realised you could just surf in the white water on a foamie if you wanted to, it was like a lightbulb moment and I was hooked. I also like windsurfing but only on very gentle, flat days.<\/p> The main problem I have with surfing is overcoming The Fear! There are still occasionally days where I stand on the beach and I can\u2019t go in because I can\u2019t stop visualising breaking a leg or falling awkwardly and dislocating a shoulder. It\u2019s not just the risk of injury that is scary, there\u2019s a real risk of drowning if I were to get badly hurt in deep water.\u00a0<\/p> I sometimes get frustrated with how slow my progress is. I\u2019ve been surfing several years and am still only comfortable paddling out and catching green waves on the smallest of days. But then I remind myself it\u2019s a massive privilege that I\u2019m able to do these activities at all and at the end of the day you shouldn\u2019t bother yourself with what other people are doing, just focus on having fun.\u00a0<\/p> And on the plus side, the many, many, many hours spent in the white water mean my pop up is fabulous.<\/p> Porth Beach in Newquay, hands down. In fact, I\u2019m a near permanent fixture there in the winter months. The waves are really small and gentle and I can touch the bottom all the way out which I find very reassuring in the event that I had an accident and wasn\u2019t able to swim back; I would be able to stand in the water and call for help. The atmosphere is lovely too, it\u2019s just lots of beginners toppling in all together - really friendly vibe.\u00a0<\/p> If your doctor says it\u2019s safe for you to do so, definitely get in and give it a try. There are great adaptive surfing organisations out there to help disabled surfers enjoy the sport safely.\u00a0<\/p> Always surf with a buddy and trust your instincts; I\u2019ve been talked into going out in conditions that I knew weren\u2019t safe for me before and I\u2019ve kicked myself afterwards. You know your body and your condition best and if you\u2019re happiest doing your thing in the whitewater, then just stay there! In fact, you might be surprised how many of your buddies will join you there.<\/p> Philps Pasties<\/a><\/u> are THE best winter post-surf snack (especially if you\u2019re Vegan, like me, their Vegan one is delicious).<\/p> I also have to mention King Surf<\/a><\/u> in Mawgan Porth. Pete occasionally teaches his students at Porth Beach and he\u2019s like everybody\u2019s hype-man, really encouraging and positive to beginners whether they\u2019re his students or not!<\/p> I really wish someone would design and sell a blue rashie with the disability logo on it - it would be a fantastic option for people who want to visually identify themselves to people around them, so people know to give them a bit of space. I\u2019ve looked and looked but I can\u2019t find one.\u00a0<\/p> 80% of my anxiety comes from other surfers and their boards getting too close to me, especially people not wearing leashes; I say my prayers when I see a rogue longboard tumbling towards me in the surf!<\/p> The Charity to support and learn about OI in the UK is called the Brittle Bones Society and they\u2019re on https:\/\/brittlebone.org\/<\/a><\/u>\u00a0<\/p>Hi Steff, thank you for talking to us. Can you tell us a bit about yourself?<\/strong><\/h3>
What is Osteogenesis Imperfecta and what are the symptoms?<\/strong><\/h3>
I\u2019m guessing that surfing isn\u2019t something that you were encouraged to do? - how did you get into surfing?<\/strong><\/h3>
Has surfing had its problems? Has it helped you in your day to day life?<\/strong><\/h3>
Your favourite place to surf and why?<\/strong><\/h3>
Do you have any advice for any differently abled people, who are reading this and itching to grab a surfboard?<\/strong><\/h3>
We love highlighting other local businesses and brands. Who is your favourite Cornish brand and why?<\/strong><\/h3>
Anything else that you want to add?<\/strong><\/h3>
Where can people find out more about Osteogenesis Imperfecta?<\/strong><\/h3>